Two weeks out of the year bring all fashion lovers together, Autumn/Winter Fashion Week in September and Spring/Summer Fashion week in February. The months in between however seem to drag on and on with the light at the end of the tunnel as the only hope. Or is it? For I have discovered graduate fashion shows!!! Bored of my dry-spell I decided to do some research about what new fashion designers are doing and discovered most of the up and coming talent is graduating from schools all across the UK. Luckily for me most of these shows pick their best and brightest and they come together to show their stuff during Graduate Fashion Week, which is the first week of June in the UK. This year over 20 Schools came together to strut the London catwalk. Although the winners of the Gala have already been announced, due to the fact that it was from the 4th through the 8th, I’m going to post some of what I think are the true highlights and crown my own “winners.”
I’ll start with the University of Westminster:
The above are the creations of Olivia Hanson. Although these are not so much my favorites they are just so kitschy I couldn’t resist reblogging them, they remind me so intensely of something Julie Dee would like. It’s like a whole different way to use the space and silhouette of the model to express your point and concept. It juxtaposes the skinny models very well and makes you think about what the shadows would look like.
3rd Place: Finally, a fresh take on bohemian style from Olivia Deane. Especially the fur coat on the left model reminds me of the leather jackets they used to wear in the bohemian fashion times of the sixties. That combined with the flowers and sheers work to remind me even more of a time since passed. The rich fabrics make it step up from hippy chic to couture.
2nd Place: Although the short skirts would never work for me, Kate Wallis brings a fresh new perspective to the super short mini dress. With bizarre and bountiful feathers as well as over the top sequins and an excellent use of color contrast as well as form contrast (full shoulders to add a tinge of masculine to the otherwise hyper feminine look.)
1st Place: An all black collection! How appropriate for this summer, which in, unlike other summers, the style is black power pieces as opposed to rainbow/bright pieces. However, the true reason I chose Amy Clerklewitcz as the winner is her shapes. With dramatically full skirts and dramatic lines these silhouettes scream and are truly amazing pieces of art.
Next we see the collections from the University of East London:
2nd Place: I love Anna Kilpatrick’s colorful look. I like her juxtaposition of staunch shapes with flowing fabrics used for the dresses and yellow pants of the rights. The leather neck pieces with and the shoulder pads are very bold and I hope to see work of this sort more in the future.
1st Place: Once again, in keeping with my tastes, I pick the most dramatic collection of the University. This time it is Eliesha George’s monochrome pieces that work for me. I love the slitted tudor looking skirt on the left and the full collars in all three pieces. I also love how the outfit on the right teases with the idea of a Spanish bull fighter.
Edinburgh College of Art:
3rd Place: Pamela Hill’s exquisite knit pieces are subtle yet stylish. Although I am normally one for dramatics I must admit her colors play well off of each other and the patterns are to die for.
2nd Place: In full color is the work of Hannah Cumming. With beautiful gathering and unique silhouettes, Hannah chose daring oranges to really make her work pop and come alive. I especially love the orange and blue outfit to the left that is simple yet elegant.
1st Place: Laura De Barra dominates first place with her sleek, sexy, and sophisticated looks. Again representing that black and white is the new rainbow. With slouchy silhouettes, she makes fashion look effortless and knitwear look like something easy to do.
University of Central Lancashire:
3rd Place: With mod primaries and strong silhouettes is Estée Anna Lindley. What I like so much about her work is how vibrant and free they feel. If they weren’t garments it seems as though they may jump around a room on their own. The crisp white really plays well with the colors and gives something, that may be considered “over the top” by some, a classiness. It’s extremely reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 1965/66 Piet Mondrian inspired dress:
2nd Place: In second come not one but two designers. Colette Gibson (work in middle image) and Marissa Owens (work on right) are very different in execution but what I love about their two pieces are the same. Both have a strong oriental influence and striking patterns that scream at the viewer. I love it.
1st Place: Loving the gothic edginess in this collection by Charlotte Brown. With excellent craftsmanship and stunning attention to detail I can’t help but drool. I also can’t seem to stop loving the different tones of black and the sheen some of the pieces hold.
Northumbria University:
3rd Place: Marielle Fay Renwick claims third with her super cute styles. All of these remind me a little of Little Red Riding Hood or a fairy tale of some sort. I love the baskets and scarves that show care for the whole aesthetic, not just the garments.
2nd Place: I fancy Charis Younger’s concept above all else and if it were only based on that they would be in 1st. With flowing aesthetics contained within belts and metallic suits, this collection about humanity vs. machines is something so surreal it’s beautiful. I love the contrast in the cloths as well as in the pieces and the use of fabric is all over the board. Only a true artist can vary it up this much and get away with it.
1st Place: Ah, the French revolution. I always love when historical pieces are made modern in a beautiful way and Harriet Deva Ferris totally accomplishes this. With dip-dyeing and beautifully vibrant colors she earns the top spot with no competition. I love the technique as well with the gathered bodice on the green coat and the strappy open back to the right.
Salford University:
3rd Place: With a modern tribal fusion aesthetic I really enjoy the work of Ester Ndongala. Her reoccurring pattern works because the execution of the pieces varies creatively and comes through as different yet cohesive.
2nd Place: Nicola Bream wins second because she not only brings rich patterns to the table but combines them with other pieces and silhouettes to create successful aesthetics. The center piece is reminiscent of a kimono but so complicated and almost hard to comprehend, it is breath taking.
1st Place: Bright colors, sparkles and fringe! What’s not to like in Ahn Hoang’s collection? With simpler silhouettes, Ahn played off of this by added fringe to complicate what the eye sees and amplify movement.
UCA Epsom:
2nd Place: Harriet Edmund’s use of color and textures set her apart from her fellow classmates and are tantalizing. I especially loved the accessory touches of the sunglasses and swim cap (pictured left.)
1st Place: Jungo Kuroiwa’s show is magnificent. All black with exquisite lace detailing set them apart from their adversaries and got them into the finalists for the final Gala Award. I cannot express how much I love these silhouettes whose strength is contrasted by the fine lace they are made up of.
De Montfort University:
3rd Place: With fox fur and lizard printed leather, it MUST be animal magnetism that drew me to Lauren Pharoah’s collection. I love the idea that there’s a leather jacket for every occasion and style and this collection really emphasizes that.
2nd Place: Sarika Panchouli is a god of detail and fine needle crafts. With all of the knit and knotted stringers, her outfits are reminiscent of a squid, but that’s what I kind of love about this work, it’s so strange.
1st Place: Emily Andrew’s pieces are absolutely delectable and wonderfully kitschy!!! All though some may consider her “kooky” I think this innovative look is super fun and perfect for a night out. I love how in some of the pieces that main concentration emphasizes the body whereas in others it totally neglects it. Reminds me of Dolce and Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection with its stars and music notes:
Next to Bath Spa University:
2nd Place goes to Hannah Harwin Barclay, her use of shapes to give a fresh and interesting look to the body is remarkable. I especially love the use of stripes and plaids. The skirt on the right is my outlandish favorite!
1st Place: Isabella Kent Webb’s collection is clean and meticulous, yet through her use of accents and ornamentation she creates a sophistication that is hard to achieve.
Northbrook College:
3rd Place: Melissa Lee uses volume to her advantage and has a great understanding of color. By using bright accents with her otherwise dark outfits she achieves a fantastic aesthetic.
2nd Place: Normally I’m not a fan of less form-fitted outfits; however, Louisa Payne achieves and masters this look quite well. Through her use of bold knits and knowing just what to expose she has quite the collection.
1st Place: In first is Lara Dannielle Dumbleton. Her use of bright colors and cartoonesque aesthetics is fun to look at!
UWE Bristol has amazing talent; it was hard to choose just three:
3rd Place: Jenna Dawson has an excellent variety of silhouettes and I especially enjoyed her ability to drape things elegantly.
2nd Place: I really like Nicola Chisnall’s collection because of its color and the materials she used. I love the plastic garment to the right and how it closely imitates fur.
1st Place: Edward Lord is a couturier in the making. He achieved an elegance and feeling of power that is not often accomplished. It is no wonder he was the finale collection for his school.
Birmingham Institute of Art and Design:
2nd Place: Sean Denham’s use of silhouettes and how he achieved such variety through different fabrics is remarkable. I especially enjoy the back of the garment in the middle photo.
1st Place: Katie Urban’s hippie chic with a flair of gypsy and flamenco feel is amazing. I love her fabric choices and use of beige/wine colors to keep it classy.
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